St. Moritz — The Original Winter Playground and Why It Still Delivers
Twice an Olympic host, birthplace of Alpine tourism, and home to the Cresta Run. Here's the insider's take.
St. Moritz invented winter tourism. In 1864, hotelier Johannes Badrutt bet a group of British guests they'd love the Engadin in winter — they did, and the rest is history. Today it's still the gold standard for luxury alpine holidays, but there's serious skiing to match the glamour.
Getting There
The nearest major airport is Zurich (ZRH), around 3–3.5 hours by car or train. The scenic route via the Glacier Express or Bernina Express from Chur is one of the world's great rail journeys. Innsbruck (INN) is also reachable in about 3 hours via the Arlberg pass.
Where to Stay
St. Moritz has two main areas: Dorf (village) for luxury hotels and boutiques, and Bad (spa quarter) for a slightly more affordable base. The iconic Badrutt's Palace and Kulm Hotel define the ultra-luxury tier, but solid 3-star options exist from CHF 150/night. Self-catering apartments in Celerina, one stop down the valley, offer excellent value.
On the Mountain
The Engadin St. Moritz ski region covers 350km of piste across Corviglia, Corvatsch, and Diavolezza-Lagalb. Corviglia is the main mountain above town — wide cruisers with panoramic views. Corvatsch offers the highest point at 3,303m with glacier runs, while Diavolezza is the freeride playground with the legendary glacier descent to Morteratsch.
Where to Eat
Mountain dining is exceptional. El Paradiso on Corviglia has a sun terrace worth the detour. In town, Chesa Veglia (inside Badrutt's Palace) serves outstanding Engadin specialities. For something more affordable, try Veltliner Keller for hearty regional dishes.
Local Insider Tips
- The Engadin has 300 days of sunshine per year — bring good sunglasses and sunscreen.
- Buy the regional Engadin ski pass to access all three mountains. Dynamic pricing means booking online in advance saves real money.
- Don't miss the frozen lake — in winter it hosts horse racing, cricket, and polo on ice.
- Take the Bernina Express day trip to Poschiavo for Italian lunch across the border.
Budget Breakdown (7 days, per person)
| Item | Budget | Mid-Range |
|---|---|---|
| Flights (return) | £100 | £200 |
| Train/transfer | CHF 60 | CHF 120 |
| Accommodation (7 nights) | CHF 700 | CHF 1,500 |
| 6-day lift pass | CHF 420 | CHF 420 |
| Equipment rental | CHF 150 | CHF 250 |
| Meals & drinks | CHF 300 | CHF 600 |
| Total | ~CHF 1,730 (~€1,660) | ~CHF 3,090 (~€2,960) |