Mégeve — The Elegant Ski Resort That Does Everything Right

Most people think of Courchevel or Val d'Isère when they picture upmarket French skiing. But those of us who've spent real time in the Alps know the truth: Mégeve is where the French themselves go. No high-rise blocks, no purpose-built concrete — just a medieval village, horse-drawn carriages on cobbled streets, and 400km of skiing spread across three interconnected areas.

Getting There

Geneva airport is barely 90 minutes away, making Mégeve one of the most accessible resorts in the French Alps. The drive through the Arve valley is beautiful — you'll spot Mont Blanc before you even reach the village. From the UK, easyJet and BA fly to Geneva daily from around £60 one-way.

Where to Stay

The village centre around Place de l'Église is the heart of the action and walkable to the Chamois gondola. Apartments here run €100–180/night. For families, the Demi-Quartier area near the Jaillet slopes offers quieter, more affordable options from €70/night.

Local tip: Skip the 5-star palaces and book a traditional Savoyard farmhouse through Airbnb — many have been beautifully restored and include wood-fired saunas.

On the Mountain

Mégeve's skiing is spread across three areas: Rochebrune, Mont d'Arbois, and Le Jaillet. The runs are generally wide and tree-lined — perfect for intermediates and beginners who want to build confidence. Advanced skiers shouldn't dismiss it though: the Épaule run off Mont Joly offers genuine steeps with stunning views of Mont Blanc.

• Beginners: The Jaillet sector has wide, gentle greens with almost no crowds
• Intermediates: The Côte 2000 area above Rochebrune has beautiful cruising reds
• Advanced: Mont Joly summit (2,525m) delivers proper alpine descents

Best Non-Ski Day in the Alps

This is where Mégeve truly shines. The village is a destination in itself — think boutique shopping, art galleries, and a weekly farmers' market with Beaufort cheese straight from the farm. Book a horse-drawn carriage ride through the old town for the full experience.

For something active, try the Megève Luge Alpine Coaster or the snowshoe trail to the Croix des Salles viewpoint.

Where to Eat & Drink

• L'Alpette — mountain restaurant accessible by gondola, incredible tartiflette and panoramic terrace. Book ahead for lunch.
• Le Cintra — the après-ski institution. Hot chocolate with whipped cream by the fireplace is a Mégeve ritual.
• Le Prieuré — Michelin-starred but surprisingly relaxed. The tasting menu is worth the splurge for a special night.

Local Insider Tips

• The free navette (shuttle bus) connects all three ski areas every 10 minutes — don't bother driving
• Ski Rochebrune first thing in the morning when the groomers are fresh and the sun hits the slopes
• Wednesday is market day — arrive before 10am for the best Reblochon and saucisson
• The Mont d'Arbois gondola mid-station has the best Mont Blanc views and zero crowds

Budget Breakdown (7 days, per person)