Chamonix — The Complete Guide to Mont Blanc's Ski Capital

I've skied Chamonix more times than I can count, and it still surprises me. This isn't a resort — it's a real mountain town with a climbing and skiing heritage that goes back 200 years. The terrain is serious, the views are world-class, and the après-ski scene punches well above its weight. Here's the complete guide.

Getting There

Geneva airport is the gateway — just 1 hour 15 minutes by road through the Mont Blanc tunnel approach. From London, you're looking at a 4-hour door-to-resort journey including a 90-minute flight. For something different, the Eurostar + TGV to Saint-Gervais gets you there in about 6 hours with mountain views the whole way.

Where to Stay

Chamonix has distinct neighbourhoods, each with a different vibe:

• Town Centre — walk to Aiguille du Midi, restaurants, bars. €90–160/night for a 3-star.
• Les Praz — quieter, near the Flégère lift. Great for families. €70–120/night.
• Argentière — 10 min drive north, closest to Grands Montets. Where the serious skiers stay. €60–100/night.

Local tip: If you're on a budget, stay in Les Houches (one stop on the Mont Blanc Express train). Accommodation is 30–40% cheaper and you still have full Chamonix access.

On the Mountain

Chamonix has five separate ski areas, each with its own character:

• Grands Montets (advanced) — steep, north-facing, holds powder for days. The Bochard gondola accesses the best off-piste.
• Brévent-Flégère (intermediate) — south-facing with stunning Mont Blanc panoramas. Best grooming in the valley.
• Les Houches (beginner/family) — tree-lined, sheltered from wind, gentle reds.
• Le Tour/Balme (all levels) — quieter, great off-piste for intermediates learning to venture off the groomed.
• Vallée Blanche — the bucket-list glacier descent. 20km from the Aiguille du Midi to town. Requires a guide.

Where to Eat & Drink

• MBC (Micro Brasserie de Chamonix) — craft beer and burgers. The IPA is excellent and the atmosphere is unbeatable après-ski.
• Munchie — legendary nachos and burritos. Every returning skier's first stop.
• Le Cap Horn — proper Savoyard food (tartiflette, raclette) in a cosy setting. Book for dinner — it fills up fast.
• La Crémerie du Glacier — tiny spot near Argentière, hands-down the best fondue in the valley. Cash only.

Local Insider Tips

• Buy the Mont Blanc Unlimited pass if you're staying a week — it covers all five areas plus the Aiguille du Midi and Montenvers railway
• Grands Montets has the best snow but closes in high wind. Check the webcam before driving up.
• The free Chamonix Bus connects all ski areas every 15 minutes — your lift pass is your ticket
• For powder days, head to Le Tour. Everyone rushes to Grands Montets, leaving Le Tour untracked until midday.
• The Montenvers Mer de Glace train is worth doing on a rest day — the glacier cave is surreal

Budget Breakdown (7 days, per person)