Aspen — A European's Guide to Colorado's Most Iconic Ski Town
Four mountains, free buses, and $5 slices that taste better than they should.
Aspen is unlike anything in Europe. Four distinct mountains, a town straight out of a Western movie set, and a ski culture that's equal parts celebrity glitz and genuine Colorado grit. If you're coming from Europe, here's what you actually need to know — not the Instagram version, the real one.
Getting There
Aspen has its own airport (ASE) with direct flights from Denver, Chicago, Dallas, and LA. From Europe, you'll connect through a US hub — Denver (DEN) is usually the cheapest and fastest, with a 4-hour drive or 30-minute puddle-jumper flight to Aspen after.
Pro tip: The Denver-to-Aspen drive through Glenwood Canyon is spectacular, especially in winter. Rent an SUV with snow tyres — you'll need them for Independence Pass (though it's closed in winter; you'll take I-70 to Highway 82).
The Four Mountains
One lift pass, four completely different experiences:
- Aspen Mountain (Ajax) — no beginners allowed. Seriously. All blue and black runs with 1,000m vertical. The Silver Queen gondola from town drops you right in it.
- Aspen Highlands — local's favourite. The Highland Bowl hike (30–45 minutes up from the top lift) accesses some of the best in-bounds expert terrain in North America.
- Buttermilk — beginner and family mountain. Wide, gentle runs and home of the Winter X Games.
- Snowmass — the big one. 150+ trails, massive vertical (1,343m), everything from groomers to glades. Most Europeans end up spending half their trip here.
Where to Stay
Aspen town is compact and the free RFTA bus system is excellent, so location is flexible:
- Downtown Aspen — walk to Ajax gondola, restaurants, bars. Hotels from $200/night, condos from $150/night.
- Snowmass Village — ski-in/ski-out, more family-oriented, 15 min by free bus to Aspen. Condos from $120/night.
Local tip: Snowmass condos are significantly cheaper than downtown Aspen and the free bus to town runs every 15 minutes until midnight.
Where to Eat & Drink
- White House Tavern — the best sandwich in Colorado. The braised short rib on sourdough is legendary. Come at 11:30 to beat the queue.
- Ajax Tavern — truffle fries at the base of Aspen Mountain. Pricey but iconic. Sit on the patio and watch skiers come down the last run.
- Hops Culture — craft beer and surprisingly good pizza at normal prices. The locals' escape from $30 entrees.
- J-Bar at the Hotel Jerome — historic bar dating to 1889. The Colorado Bulldog cocktail is a must-try.
Local Insider Tips
- Buy the Ikon Pass before the season — it covers all four Aspen mountains plus dozens of other resorts worldwide, and is far cheaper than buying daily tickets
- Aspen Highlands opens 30 minutes later than Ajax. On powder days, everyone queues at Ajax while Highlands' first chair drops you into untracked snow.
- The free bus system (RFTA) is genuinely excellent — locals use it daily. No need for a car in town.
- Altitude matters. Aspen town sits at 2,400m. Take it easy on day one, drink plenty of water, and skip the cocktails on your first night.
- Wednesday nights in winter, the Aspen Art Museum has free admission and a rooftop bar
Budget Breakdown (7 days, per person from London)
| Item | Budget | Mid-Range |
|---|---|---|
| Flights (return to Denver) | £450 | £700 |
| Denver → Aspen transfer | $60 (bus) | $250 (flight) |
| Accommodation (7 nights) | £600 | £1,400 |
| 6-day lift pass | ~€1,050 | ~€1,050 |
| Equipment rental | $200 | $350 |
| Meals & drinks | £350 | £700 |
| Total | ~£2,500 | ~£4,200 |