Andermatt — From Military Secret to Switzerland's Hottest Ski Destination
The Gemsstock is legendary for off-piste. Now a massive investment has transformed the whole SkiArena.
Andermatt was once Switzerland's best-kept freeride secret — a tiny garrison town at the crossroads of four alpine passes. Then Egyptian billionaire Samih Sawiris invested over CHF 1 billion, connecting it to Sedrun and Disentis, building The Chedi hotel, and turning a 180km ski area into one of the Alps' most exciting destinations.
Getting There
Remarkably well-connected by train. Zurich to Andermatt takes about 2 hours via Göschenen with one change. The village sits on the Glacier Express route between Zermatt and St. Moritz. By car from Zurich, it's 1.5 hours via the Gotthard.
Where to Stay
The Chedi Andermatt is a five-star statement property with an incredible spa. Radisson Blu Reussen offers modern comfort at mid-range prices. Budget travellers should look at the newly built apartments near the Andermatt Swiss Alps development or the cosy River House Boutique Hotel.
On the Mountain
SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun-Disentis now offers 180km of piste. The Gemsstock (2,961m) is the headline — north-facing, steep, and home to some of Switzerland's best off-piste. The Sedrun side is gentler and sunnier, perfect for intermediates. New lifts have eliminated most queues and the snow record is exceptional thanks to the high altitude and northern exposure.
Where to Eat
The Japanese Restaurant at The Chedi is outstanding (book well ahead). Gasthaus Ochsen in the old village has been serving hearty mountain food since the 17th century. On the mountain, Gütsch at 2,344m has a sun terrace worth lingering on.
Local Insider Tips
- Gemsstock opens late (usually mid-December) due to its north-facing aspect — but that same exposure means incredible snow well into April.
- Take the Glacier Express to Sedrun one day and ski back — a mini-adventure in itself.
- The new Gütsch Express gondola has transformed access — no more T-bar torture.
- Cross-country skiing in the Urseren valley is free with a guest card and beautifully peaceful.
Budget Breakdown (7 days, per person)
| Item | Budget | Mid-Range |
|---|---|---|
| Flights (return) | £100 | £200 |
| Train/transfer | CHF 60 | CHF 100 |
| Accommodation (7 nights) | CHF 500 | CHF 1,200 |
| 6-day lift pass | CHF 415 | CHF 415 |
| Equipment rental | CHF 120 | CHF 200 |
| Meals & drinks | CHF 250 | CHF 550 |
| Total | ~CHF 1,445 (~€1,385) | ~CHF 2,665 (~€2,555) |